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Style Inspiration - 8 Dec 2011

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[Behind the Brand - ROLEX] 1927 Rolex Oyster Introduction Advertorial

Hans Wilsdorf had a brilliant marketing mind, and he successfully capitalized on the public relations exposure generated by Mercedes Gleitze's vindication swim. Hans Wilsdorf finally found his real Mermaid to showcase his Oyster.

The following Rolex advertorial ran on the cover of the London Daily Mail Newspaper on November 24, 1927, and it showcased the Rolex Oyster along with Mercedes Gleitze.

1927 Rolex Oyster Introduction Brochure

The next two photos are from a Rolex Oyster brochure, and the first image depicts Hans Wilsdorf observing the Rolex advertorial (pictured above) which he placed in the London Daily Mail on November 24th, 1927.

[Behind the Brand - ROLEX] The Evolution Of The Revolution

So what makes a Rolex Oyster an Oyster? The winding crown acts like a screw-on cap, or micro jar-lid, and has watertight gaskets in it. The best way to think of it is to imagine a submarine hatch that is threaded and has to be twisted or spun open or closed.

In 1926, at age 45, Hans Wilsdorf had successfully designed, manufactured and patented the waterproof Rolex Oyster. The challenge he faced was, how to communicate the value-proposition of such a product?

Hans came up with the idea of associating the fantasy of mermaids with the waterproof Rolex Oyster as seen in the 1926 French Rolex advertisement seen below.

1926 French Rolex Mermaid Oyster Poster

[Behind the Brand - ROLEX] Rolex Chronograph (Reference 6234)

Rolex also introduced the grandfather of the Daytona in 1955, known as the Rolex Chronograph [Reference 6234]. The Reference 6234 would be made from 1955 to 1961, and Rolex averaged approximately 500 units per year.

[Behind the Brand - ROLEX] The Perpetual Oyster & The Mermaid

In a span of 5 years from 1926 to 1931, Rolex and Hans Wilsdorf would create and patent two major horology milestones, which would forever set Rolex apart; the Rolex Oyster waterproof watch-case, and the Rolex Perpetual Movement. In 1925, Rolex would also create and register their famous trademark logo of the Rolex five-point logo crown.

The Art-Deco era was a time of tremendous growth for Rolex, so much so, there are many art-deco elements which remain today as part of their current design language.

The Rolex Oyster is perhaps the most revolutionary and profound development in watch history. The following patent application was filed by Hans Wilsdorf on behalf of Rolex in 1926:

[Behind the Brand - ROLEX] The Secret Of Success

"On looking back into the past, I find that, in developing and extending my business, I have always had certain aims in mind, of course from which I never deviated. Perhaps these aims can be summarized as follows:

1.) To create watch designs suitable for both men and women.

2.) To standardize a range of movements of different sizes.

3.) To obtain so high a degree of quality, that our watches, whatever the caliber, should be recognized as “ chronometers” by the Observatories.

4.) To give current models the benefit of the results and improvements obtained with specially constructed high precision specimens.

5.) To maintain this high degree of precision by protecting the movements against the penetration of dust and impurities, the danger to which the wrist watch is particularly exposed.

This last point presented a problem which could only be resolved by protecting the movement against all outside influences. To my technical assistants, my constant refrain was, from the earliest days: “We must succeed in making a watch case so tight that our movements will be permanently guaranteed against damage caused by dust, perspiration, water, heat and cold. Only then will the perfect accuracy of the Rolex watch be secured."

[Behind the Brand - ROLEX] The Hermetically-Sealed Case

The next Rolex pictured below is called a Hermetic watch and it was made in 1924. This new style of watch completely protected the entire movement, and notice that when it is sealed the watch winding crown is hidden inside the watch.

Think of a Hermetically sealed watch as being like a jar lid (with a round glass window) screwed on a jar. Once the lid is screwed into place, it forms an impervious barrier. No liquid can get in or out of the jar when the lid is securely screwed into place. (This of course is if you do not submerge the watch in deep water. At some point, without a gasket the case would fail and let water in).

This design was revolutionary at the time because it consited of two pieces. Basically you would spin the threaded cap off the front of the watch (think jar lid). The challenge was, in order to change the time or wind the watch–every day–you had to spin-off the top, every time, and then, spin it back on afterward. Even though it worked, this design was short lived because it was a bit like having the on-off switch for the windshield wipers in the glove compartment of your car.

Notice also the face of the cap has a machined or fluted edge to make it easy to grip. Another challenge, was, that over time, the fluted bezel would wear down so if you used it for a long time, eventually you would no longer be able to grip the face to twist it off.

This machined edge or fluted bezel is the genesis for the fluted bezels on modern Rolex watches, including the Day-Date, Datejust and even on the sport Rolex professional models like the Submariner and GMT Master.

This first image is a snap-back Rebberg Rolex watch from 1914. Essentially it is a pocket watch on a leather strap.

If you look closely at the image above, you notice the watch has a hinge on the left side of the case. If you flip the watch around onto its face (as seen below) you notice if you open the rear door it exposes the movement. (Note: the snap-back door on the photo below is not in sharp focus, but it is on the left edge of the photo sitting upright, perpendicular to the case). The challenge is, there is no seal or gasket to stop dust, perspiration, water or humidity from entering the case.

[Behind the Brand - ROLEX] Snap-Front Hunting Case

Pictured below is another Rolex wristwatch from 1915, this time with a snap front Hunting Case and if you look closely you notice it is simply a pocket-watch with lugs soldered onto the case, along with a leather piece sewn onto the wired lugs–very primitive and fragile by todays standards.

The reason it had the snap front case-cover was to help protect the glass crystal from getting cracked when a gentleman went hunting.

It is important to note, prior to World War I, wrist watches for men did not exist. Ladies wore watches on straps around their wrist, but men wore their pocket watches on a chain, and they kept their pocket watches in their vest pocket of their suit.

During the early twentieth century, when a man was asked what he thought about wearing a watch on his wrist (known at the time as a wristlet) one man remarked he wouldn't be caught doing such an unrefined thing. He said you would be as likely to catch him in a dress as you would wearing a "wristlet."

When you examine these first generation wristwatches, with the skinny strap, you can kind of understand why men would have thought they were feminine at the time.

Hans Wilsdorf

1881-1960

Timeline of Innovation & Achievement

• 1881 - Birth of Hans Wilhelm Wilsdorf was born on March 22, in Kulmach, Bavaria (which is now part of Germany) to Ferdinand and Anna Wilsdorf.

• 1905 - Hans Wilsdorf founds his first watch company with his older brother in law and names it Wilsdorf & Davis Ltd.

• 1908 - Hans Wilsdorf registers Rolex trademark name. He seeks to create a new name that is simple to remember and pronounce as well as a name that cannot be misspelled. Instead of using an existing name he makes up a name from scratch, much like Eastman did when he created the Kodak brand in 1888. Hans Wilsdorf said "With Rolex I sought to create a name that would be easy to pronounce in all European languages and could easily and elegantly grace the dial of a watch."

• 1910 - Hans Wilsdorf sends his first movement to the School of Horology in Switzerland and was awarded the world's first wrist watch Chronometer rating.

• 1912 - Hans Wilsdorf opens Wilsdorf & Davis offices in Bienne, Switzerland to facilitate movement business with Mr. Aegler.

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